[English Version] SIMON BRETTE A Vision for Watchmaking
- bhyeom
- 5일 전
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The Direction Simon Brette Draws for Modern Watchmaking
Simon Brette does not follow a predefined formula for watchmakers. The path he has forged—grounded in engineering, craftsmanship, and a deep respect for collaboration—clearly points to where contemporary watchmaking is headed.
What does it truly mean to be a watchmaker today? Is it someone born with an almost predestined DNA—taking machines apart and putting them back together from childhood, loving watches so deeply that becoming a watchmaker feels inevitable? Or is it someone who, from an early stage, is recognized and nurtured by prestigious brands or master watchmakers? Simon Brette, widely regarded as one of the leading figures in contemporary Swiss watchmaking, belongs to neither category. Although he has been deeply involved in some of the most important watchmaking projects in Switzerland for nearly 15 years, his starting point was not watchmaking, but engineering.
Early in his career, Simon Brette worked at the French tire manufacturer Michelin. He grew up surrounded by craftsmen in France’s Auvergne region, including his father, a gifted carpenter. Watching their work instilled in him a profound respect for handcraft. Once he became certain of his passion for watches, he reached out to major watch brands by email, seeking guidance on how to design movements and cases. The response was unequivocal: study watchmaking in Switzerland. After completing an engineering degree at the Haute École Arc Ingénierie in Le Locle, Brette joined Chronode, the movement design and development company led by Jean-François Mojon. There, he worked as a technical designer, contributing to the development of some of the most refined calibers in modern watchmaking. He later moved to MB&F, where he oversaw the entire process—from R&D to serial production—transforming movement concepts into finished products.
On paper, this résumé alone suggests a watchmaker of formidable depth. Yet his reputation rests on more than credentials. When he founded his brand in 2021, Simon Brette devoted enormous energy to gathering artisans who would commit themselves fully to the craft alongside him. Today, he collaborates with twelve artisans and partners—including a watchmaking director and decorators—each excelling at the highest level in their respective fields. To support them openly, he features video profiles of these artisans on the brand’s official Instagram, placing individual talent firmly in the spotlight. When the GMT KOREA team visited his Swiss atelier recently, Simon Brette repeatedly expressed sincere gratitude and respect for those he works with. By placing people at the center and building a sustainable, collaborative project, Simon Brette is creating a legacy worthy of long-term recognition—one that promises to endure.
The Contemporary Benchmark for Time-Only Watches
Whether expert or enthusiast, few forget the powerful first impression left by a Simon Brette watch. Its aesthetic coherence is striking, but it is the movement that has earned him recognition alongside the very best contemporary independent watchmakers. Among them, he is often mentioned in the same breath as the creators of today’s finest time-only watches.
Even among emerging watchmakers, the mere mention of his name is met with quiet nods of respect. His debut watch, the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription unveiled in 2023, was a revelation. Contrary to expectations shaped by his background in advanced, high-concept movement development, the watch was rooted in a traditional architecture—yet executed with rigorous logic and clarity that reflected his long experience.
The project brought together an exceptional group of artisans: Luc Monnet, who handled prototyping at Greubel Forsey; Anton Pettersson, a contributor to the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 project; and decoration specialists Barbara Coyon and Nathalie Jean-Louis, among many others. Simon Brette’s decision to work this way stemmed from a growing concern he developed after witnessing the struggles faced by individual artisans during the independent watchmaking boom around 2020. Determined to preserve their skills, he became a movement designer himself and, in 2021, launched a brand centered on independent artisans.
The first watch was offered via subscription at a time when the brand itself had not yet been publicly revealed. Collectors placed their trust in his vision, and the piece sold out immediately. In 2023, it received official recognition with the GPHG “Horological Revelation” award. What surprised our team most was Simon Brette’s reaction to the honor. Rather than focusing on prestige, he spoke of the joy of meeting more people, sharing passion, and engaging with those who truly love watches. From its inception, his work has embodied struggle, conviction, and collaboration—and today, it carries the stories of many hands and minds.
Values Revealed Through Openworking
One of the most defining features of a Simon Brette watch is its boldly openworked dial, which refuses to conceal the movement’s precision. While the movement itself is designed around symmetry, the dial deliberately adopts an asymmetrical openworked layout. On the left, the hour wheel and third and fourth wheels are revealed; on the right, Simon Brette’s own keyless works—allowing winding and time-setting via the crown alone—are exposed.
The hour, third, and fourth wheels are supported by black-polished, round titanium bridges. The free-sprung balance features four adjustable weights, with a cut-out design that deliberately shifts mass to fine-tune inertia. The wheels themselves are meticulously finished, with polished surfaces and sharp internal angles. Two parallel barrels provide a three-day power reserve, while a large balance wheel beating at a traditional 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) ensures stable torque, echoing marine and observatory chronometer principles.
The escapement is designed to appear almost detached from the gear train. Only the center wheel is visible between the barrels, while the remaining wheels are hidden just beneath the base plate yet still revealed through the dial. The brass base plate and three-quarter bridge feature a distinctive frosted finish, creating a striking contrast with black-polished steel components. The three-quarter bridge is elegantly shaped with four internal angles, while the center wheel and balance staff jewels are set in mirror-polished gold chatons. Even the screws are concave and mirror-polished.
An overcoil hairspring is secured by a traditional stud piton, and an inline lever escapement—chosen for spatial efficiency—straightens the power transmission path. The lever and escape wheel are supported on both sides by a C-shaped bridge topped with steel caps. When the crown is pulled, an S-shaped brake lever halts the balance, enabling a hacking function. Particularly captivating are the wolf-tooth profiles on the crown and ratchet wheels, a rare and evocative detail in modern movements. The crown wheel incorporates an integrated winding click spring, where click and spring are combined into a single component, ensuring smooth winding while preventing unwinding. The recently introduced Chronomètre Artisans Stainless Steel uses the same movement, but with stainless steel bridges treated with PVD coating and re-polished edges to achieve a refined grey tone. The gear wheels are crafted in white gold, while the clicks winding the twin barrels reveal purple ALD-coated components—extending aesthetic continuity from dial to movement.
Aurora Waves: Another Visual Dimension
Another defining strength of Simon Brette lies in his dials. When his watch won the GPHG “Horological Revelation” award in 2023, collectors were captivated by its radiant dial—despite the absence of gemstones. Many described it as unlike anything they had ever seen.
Asked about this distinctive approach, Simon Brette explained that his first rule in dial making is to always incorporate engraving. The way light interacts with its irregular three-dimensional surface can only truly be appreciated in person. Often described as “gold that changes expression with light,” the dial was created by Yasmina Anti, renowned for engraving work for Romain Gauthier and Philippe Dufour. Drawn to her generosity and passion, Simon Brette invited her to attempt something she had long wanted to explore but never fully realized. The result was a richly textured, hand-engraved mosaic pattern likened to dragon scales—both aesthetically striking and philosophically aligned with his approach to light and reflection. Combining flat surfaces with tremblage techniques, the work defies easy description and offers a new impression each day on the wrist.
The Chronomètre Artisans Stainless Steel introduces yet another visual experience. Its white-gold dial texture, named “Aurora Waves,” is enhanced with ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition) coating, shifting hues from mystical green to vivid violet. In low-light conditions, high-ceram inserts in the hands and the brand’s signature butterfly-shaped dovetail glow—violet by day, green by night—while luminous treatment on the dial track ensures strong presence and legibility.
The Rise of a Brand Built on Balance
Among younger talents, the most compelling proof of Simon Brette’s excellence lies in his case design. Guided by a belief that a watch should feel almost absent on the wrist, he places extraordinary emphasis on ergonomics. The case is constructed from three parts and finished without any visible external screws. The tapered lugs feature two sets of holes to accommodate straight or curved spring bars, allowing wearers to fine-tune comfort depending on strap choice. The lugs themselves are secured from inside the middle case, leaving no trace of fastening externally.
The case sides and top are satin-brushed, complemented by concave, polished screw heads. The slightly oversized crown shares the same concave polish, while at 9 o’clock sits a butterfly-shaped dovetail—an homage to Simon Brette’s father and a symbol of the craftsmanship he consistently upholds. His ascent stems from a rare equilibrium of quality, pricing, design, and detail.
A Star’s Choice—and the Market’s Response
As his popularity accelerates, Simon Brette remains composed. “I’m grateful that people appreciate my work,” he says. “I can’t control every change, but I can focus on what’s in front of me and build the brand step by step.” Recently, actor Timothée Chalamet drew attention by wearing an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, shortly before the blue-dial version won the GPHG 2025 Men’s Watch prize—prompting renewed admiration for his taste. Known as a collector with a defining Cartier style, Chalamet has emerged as a key figure driving interest toward independent watchmaking. Industry watchers followed closely, eager to see his next choice. Roughly two months ago, during an appearance on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon, he paired his signature “Marti Supreme” jacket with a Chronomètre Artisans Titanium by Simon Brette—instantly igniting conversation. While the jacket alone amplified anticipation for his film, his second public endorsement of a Simon Brette watch firmly established his credibility as a true watch enthusiast. Across Timothée Chalamet’s collection, clear themes emerge: authenticity, performance value, leading presence, and proven recognition. Simon Brette accepts this attention calmly, yet with gratitude, continuing to give his utmost to every moment of his craft.
Toward the Next Chapter
Simon Brette is already at work on his next chapter. He has confirmed that a platinum version and a new complication are in development, and that the brand’s first bracelet—an innovative design—will debut at Watches & Wonders this year. Developed over two and a half years, the bracelet comprises 446 components and is finished entirely to the highest haute horlogerie standards. No compromise is made, down to the 146 concave, polished screw heads.
How far his reputation will extend remains difficult to predict, but its global reach is already undeniable. For anyone with an interest in mechanical watchmaking, the name Simon Brette belongs at the very top of the watchlist. The Chronomètre Artisans Stainless Steel is already sold out, and those interested in future releases would be wise not to wait.
For inquiries: contact@simonbrette.com
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