[English Version] DAVID CANDAUX, A Mature Innovator of The 21st Century

2월 26일
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When many brands introduce watches inspired by the past, they tend to reinterpret the essential design codes that made those models beloved or evoke a nostalgic sentiment reminiscent of their original era. David Candaux’s watches, however, offer a different experience. Rather than recalling the past, they feel strikingly futuristic. His creations, which embody avant-garde watchmaking, conceal within them both the undiscovered legacy of an ancient civilization and innovative technologies rarely seen in conventional timepieces, presenting an entirely new aesthetic language. His watches reflect a distinct personal identity while also conveying his accumulated artisanal expertise, deep respect for fellow watchmakers, and a compelling vision for the future of horology.

The Greatest Inventor of Our Time

David Candaux was born in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux and represents the third generation of a family rooted in watchmaking tradition. In 1994, at just 15 years old, he enrolled at ETVJ (École Technique de la Vallée de Joux), where he began his apprenticeship at Jaeger-LeCoultre. During this formative period, he encountered Günter Blümlein, one of the most influential figures in the watch industry, as well as Henry-John Belmont, then CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Both individuals would profoundly shape David Candaux’s watchmaking philosophy.

After completing his studies in 1998, David Candaux officially joined Jaeger-LeCoultre, where he specialized in the restoration of antique timepieces. By 2001, he was leading the training department, and from 2004 onward, he focused on developing grand complications within the technical division, establishing his reputation as a master of ultra-precise watchmaking. After working at Jaeger-LeCoultre for 18 years, he left the company in 2011 and founded a firm dedicated to developing fine watchmaking concepts. He subsequently worked behind the scenes as a key developer for prestigious maisons such as Bovet, MB&F, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

In 2019, he was elected as a full member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), recommended by two living legends: Philippe Dufour and master clock restorer Miki Eleta. In 2017, he finally launched his own brand, unveiling his debut timepiece, the DC1 The first 8 « 1740 ». At the time, leading publications rushed to feature the watch, describing his brand as “one of the most promising evolutions in contemporary watchmaking.”

The extraordinary attention his first creation received was not only due to the numerous innovations and patents he had filed, but also because he completed every stage—from conception to finishing—entirely by hand, combining modern materials with advanced engineering to establish a new standard for 21st-century watchmaking. The GMT KOREA team first featured David Candaux’s work in March 2025 and later conducted an interview for the October issue. When asked what message he wished to leave for future generations, David Candaux responded that he hoped to leave a small footprint in his hometown of Vallée de Joux, guiding the next generation so they would not lose their way, but instead follow a path defined by purpose and passion. Without question, David Candaux stands today as one of the most experienced and mature watchmakers of his generation.

Emotion and Intellect (Le Coeur et l’Esprit)

Even within independent watchmaking, it is rare for a single watchmaker to carry out the entire process alone. This is why David Candaux’s watches achieve a level of tactile and visual perfection that feels deeply personal, conveying the sincerity of their creator.

To recognize an object of lasting value, one must examine how original and innovative it is, and whether it reflects the spirit and aesthetics of its time. David Candaux’s watches embody all of these qualities. Guided by a firm belief that a watchmaker should personally complete every stage of creation, he continues his work under the motto Le Coeur et l’Esprit—“Emotion and Intellect”—uniting the sensitivity of an artist with the precision of an engineer. Even within independent watchmaking, it is rare for a single watchmaker to carry out the entire process alone. This is why David Candaux’s watches achieve a level of tactile and visual perfection that feels deeply personal, conveying the sincerity of their creator.

Gifted from an early age, David Candaux is not only a master movement designer but also an inventor holding more than 40 patents. Accuracy remains his highest priority, and he constantly pushes beyond established conventions with original ideas. To fully understand David Candaux, one must first examine his inaugural creation, the DC1 The first 8 « 1740 ». This watch appears to establish an entirely new formula, departing from traditional horological norms.

At first glance, its design feels harmonious and intuitive, yet closer inspection reveals subtle asymmetries and unconventional placements. The dial is elevated at 12 o’clock and gradually slopes downward toward 6 o’clock, enhancing legibility. The off-center time display features a white enamel subdial, clean compass rose inspired points, and Arabic numerals, ensuring excellent readability.

The 30° inclined flying tourbillon, symmetrically positioned, are mounted on ceramic ball bearings within titanium structures and feature balances equipped with regulating screws and Breguet overcoil hairsprings. Like the dial, the manually wound Calibre H74 is itself inclined, adding further dimensionality. The movement is also designed to automatically stop when the power reserve falls below a certain level, ensuring optimal accuracy at all times.

The watch successfully passed the Chronofiable® accelerated aging test, developed by the Swiss Watch Reliability Center (CCF SA) in the 1980s. Most of the plates and bridges are crafted from titanium and finished with Candaux’s proprietary striped decoration, known as Côtes du Solliat. Every component is executed with the highest standards of anglage and polishing, exemplifying the pinnacle of contemporary hand finishing.

Drawing Closer to the Watch

One of the most practical yet captivating elements of David Candaux’s watches is his patented “Magic Crown System.” Rather than being positioned on the side of the case, the crown is located near the upper section of the 6 o’clock area. Composed of 31 components, this mechanism has become a defining signature across all of his watches. David Candaux refers to it in French as the Couronne Magique, inspired by the retractable mechanism of a ballpoint pen.

When pressed, the crown springs outward from the case, revealing its knurled surface and allowing the wearer to wind the movement or set the time. Its operation is the reverse of a conventional crown: pulling it fully outward engages winding mode, while pushing it inward activates the setting mode. By relocating the crown from the traditional 3 or 9 o’clock position to 6 o’clock, David Candaux achieved a smoother case silhouette and a more natural wearing experience. When not in use, the crown remains discreetly concealed within the case.

In 2019, David Candaux introduced the DC6 series featuring his self-invented Pointes du Risoux guilloché pattern. This watch gained attention for its tactile guilloché dial—virtually unprecedented in titanium. The engraved surface, applied directly onto a titanium base, offers a unique physical texture. An avid paraglider, David Candaux drew inspiration from the evergreen forests he observed from above, translating their organic forms into this distinctive motif. Unlike gold, titanium resists wear even after prolonged contact, preserving its tactile integrity over time.

Titanium has become inseparable from David Candaux’s watchmaking identity. Beginning with the DC6 series, he introduced an entirely titanium cascade calibre. The DC1 Titanium, released in 2024, weighs just 65 grams despite featuring a 3N 18K yellow gold dial. An evolution of the original model, it refines finishing and balance while preserving its iconic design elements. For David Candaux, titanium represents the ideal material for 21st-century watchmaking. While nickel silver was once revolutionary for its anti-magnetic and corrosion-resistant properties, titanium surpasses it—being lighter, stronger, and biocompatible. Although it requires four to five times longer to machine than traditional materials, titanium offers exceptional durability, corrosion resistance, thermal stability, and comfort for daily wear.

Time, Set Free

In his fourth creation, the DC12 MaveriK, David Candaux describes his proprietary duality concept as a “free double balance.” Completed after 17 years of reflection, this watch draws inspiration from Philippe Dufour’s Duality, a groundbreaking timepiece featuring two escapements. David Candaux reinterprets this concept through a modern lens, presenting his own vision of the double balance system.

The watch incorporates twin escapements connected by a differential mounted on the fourth wheel. This concept originated in the 1930s at the Vallée de Joux’s EPVJ (the Ecole Polytechnique de la Vallée de Joux) and the watchmaking school in Le Sentier, and Philippe Dufour became the first to implement it in a wristwatch in 1996. In David Candaux’s interpretation, the two balances operate independently, while a differential gear positioned on a hairspring shock absorber calculates their separate inputs into a single averaged output. This architecture delivers remarkable precision in real-world wearing conditions, though it is exceptionally complex and difficult to execute.

The new movement, designated Calibre C30, uses bridges and components primarily crafted from titanium. The satin-finished and polished titanium case emphasizes elegant curvature, measuring an ideal 39.5 mm in diameter and 11.9 mm thick, ensuring excellent wrist comfort. It is the most compact differential wristwatch since Philippe Dufour’s 34 mm Duality. Weighing just 47.8 grams, the Grade 5 titanium construction provides both lightness and strength, along with 50 meters of water resistance. The titanium case itself is assembled from 46 individual components, and despite its entirely new design, it maintains a clear visual continuity with the DC1, DC6, and DC7 models.

The free-sprung balance oscillates at 3 Hz, with a power reserve of 96 hours. The differential is positioned at 12 o’clock, fully visible through the openworked dial, offering dynamic visual motion comparable to that of a tourbillon. The dial combines plated German silver with a white opal chapter ring, while the spherical dial flange features 32 titanium indices.

Several of David Candaux’s creations have appeared at major auction platforms, and the DC12 prototype achieved a successful result at Phillips, clearly demonstrating strong market enthusiasm for his inventions. Collectors often seek prototypes because they capture the purest expression of a creator’s originality and early innovation before the final version is completed.

In Switzerland, the birthplace of watchmaking, the term “watchmaker” is sometimes considered insufficient to describe David Candaux. Instead, he is referred to as a concepteur horloger—a watch designer-engineer who conceives not only aesthetics but also the entire structural architecture of a timepiece. His works are often described as “art imbued with soul,” with each watch being a unique piece rather than part of a standardized production.

Having spent more than 30 years learning from masters such as Philippe Dufour and earning recognition as one of the foremost innovators of the 21st century, David Candaux’s creations remain among the most compelling and meaningful watches to follow today.

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